Amboseli National Park 2024

My first visit to Amboseli

Amboseli means salty, dusty place. You might wonder why on earth anyone would want to go to a place named so.

The reason is simple. Kenya has since the 1970’s protected elephants from hunting which means that Kenya is one of the few strongholds still left for big tusk genes. Amboseli National Park is one of the areas to travel to if you want to see how elephants should look. You do still see Tuskers elsewhere but not like in Amboseli or Tsavo.

You might ask why I haven’t done the trip before and that is due to the safari circus and the many white vans that rush people from sighting to sighting. It easily gets overcrowded and I certainly got to see how it works one morning when a male lion could hardly cross the road due to all the vehicles. It makes me sad to see, but I also understand much of why it happens, but I leave that for another time. This is also why I most probably never will go to Mara during the great migration. It is too crowded for my liking.

On the lookout for big Tuskers

The plan was simple, and that was to dedicated time for Tuskers. From proper big Tuskers to upcoming Tuskers and anything in-between. We worked with David Moipei, a famous Maasai and expert guide when it came to working with Craig the biggest Tusker in the area. He helped us tremendously with finding both Craig and Vronsky, an upcoming Tusker.

Elephant young males play fight Amboseli

Young bull elephants play fighting in Amboseli National Park

Stayed both at a lodge inside the National Park, as well as one outside. Elephants mainly stay outside the National Park at night and venture back early in the morning. This means you can work with big family herds twice each day. First coming into the park in the morning and then leaving in the afternoon. The reason for this behavior is food, water and less conflict with humans during the daylight hours.

For instance, Craig almost did not cross into Amboseli for longer periods while another big tusker, Michael, stayed in the swamp most of the time. The swamp is what draws elephants into the park as it gives them easy access to water as well as softer things to eat.